7th June 2015

Surprisingly, despite being “up in the gods,” I had a warm and peaceful night’s sleep, while Jamie once again grumbled about enduring a freezing night down in the hellish depths of ‘Shiela. Perhaps the difference was that I’d used two sleeping bags, whereas he hadn’t. Thankfully, tonight’s forecast in Byron Bay suggests it won’t be quite as cold.

Jamie’s alarm roused us at 5:45 a.m., and after a quick warming coffee, we were on the road by 6:15 a.m. Just outside Katoomba, we stopped to fuel ‘Shiela’ up for the long journey ahead. As dawn broke, I couldn’t resist pausing to capture several photos of the stunning yellow-tinged sky, framed perfectly by the silhouettes of eucalyptus trees against the rising sun.

Today, we embarked on the long drive to Byron Bay, just south of Brisbane. With a hearty breakfast stop that could have satisfied an Australian Great White, the journey ended up taking us 11 hours. Taking turns at the wheel, we followed the Pacific Highway, which was mostly fast and well-maintained.

So, what can I say about our journey?

1. We saw an awful lot of concrete and tarmac.
2. Large stretches of the highway were under construction, which slowed our progress considerably.
3. About every mile or so, we passed a police car. Australia clearly invests heavily in road policing.
4. Sadly, the road was littered with squashed ‘kangawallies’ and even koalas.
5. Aussie trucks are absolutely massive.
6. The scenery along the route was incredibly varied and beautiful, though it often flashed by too quickly to fully appreciate.
7. The further north we travelled, the warmer it got.
8. Australian drivers are impressively good and courteous.
9. Most importantly, I’ve decided, I really like Australia!

By the time we arrived at our campsite, darkness had already fallen, and finding our allocated spot proved to be quite a challenge on what was clearly a very full site. After driving around in circles and even searching on foot, we finally encountered a helpful Australian who told us the name of his plot. From there, we managed to work out where ours was, right next to the lake.

Sounds idyllic, doesn’t it? Well, perhaps not entirely. The presence of mosquitoes around the lake could be an issue, especially for Jamie. We’ll have to wait and see how that plays out!

After a refreshing coffee, we headed to the beach. Unsurprisingly, the darkness made it hard to see much, just the twinkling lights of the town further down the coast. Naturally, that’s where we decided to go next.

Driving the length of the main street, we parked at the far end and set off to explore. Byron Bay feels like it’s locked in a time warp, and much to my delight, it’s the 1970s. Long hair, flowing floral skirts, music, and smiles seemed to be everywhere. Flower power, peace, and even marijuana haven’t disappeared; they’ve simply found a home in the antipodes.

Small groups sat on the pavements chatting or playing music, while rock tunes filled the air from a nearby park, where picnics were taking place even in the dark. Every bar and restaurant pulsed with music of some kind, and the whole town exuded a sense of community as if everyone knew everyone else.

We decided to dine on two excellent kangaroo burgers with chips, washed down with some local beers, in a bar that was hosting a very accomplished blues band. Though Jamie insisted this wasn’t exactly his scene, he had to admit he was enjoying himself, albeit bemused by the number of people who wanted to chat with him as we strolled down the street. The locals were all well wrapped up, which struck us as curious considering the warmth we felt in the air.

It reminded me of a trip years ago to Sausalito, just outside San Francisco, where I was equally surprised to find the houseboats in the bay occupied by ageing hippies, clearly living off the grid. Now, it seems there’s a new generation of Aussies embracing the same carefree ethos, this time in Byron Bay! I have to say, I’m really starting to like Australia.

Sadly, as we left, a few drops of rain began to fall from the sky. Hopefully, it won’t dampen our spirits tomorrow, as I may just rediscover a bit of my youth. Fingers crossed!